The Story of the Ritz Lounge, Khartoum.

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I was told** of this case only yesterday and it just struck me how in Sudan we enjoy no rights whatsoever. Zilch. Nada. Zero.

One’s age, gender, social status means nothing. It comes down to one simple fact – you’re either ‘with’ the ruling party and reap the (astronomical) benefits of such an association or you’re on the outer peripheries of whatever inner circle the NCP deems fit to fend for yourself and manoeuvre the myriad of obstacles put into place to ensure you cannot better yourself, cannot succeed, cannot function as a human on any level. So regardless of what your social, financial and educational background is, good luck in trying to make something of yourself.

The Ritz Restaurant/Lounge was a recent welcome addition to the Khartoum scene. Food was reportedly good, service was shit, great decor and location overlooking the Nile on the Garden City side of the river – you’re typical new ‘IN’ place in a city whose residents are starving for spots to escape the crap they face and deal with on a daily basis. 

The owner bought the pricey plot of land and proceeded to set up the lounge. For like a month or so things were going well, word of mouth was doing its usual excellent work of ensuring punters kept going and the tills ringing. All of a sudden during the last week of Ramadan we were told the place shut down, problems with the Mahaleya (the local municipality) regarding the land itself.

Turns out the realtor/agent sold land that wasn’t for sale nor did he have the permission of the owner to sell. Whats more, the real owner was allegedly someone high-up in the ruling party and they were livid. Word is the owner’s the First Lady – (in all actuality she’s the Second Lady but we won’t let such details bother us) who probably got the land for peanuts (assuming she paid in the first place) and was either going to make a killing with it or develop some gaudy, unnecessary, white elephant of a pseudo-government enterprise using public money.

Next thing we hear the Ritz was demolished. Broken into smithereens with nothing left but rubble and broken pieces of concrete. Turns out the Mahaliya gave the owner notice to vacate the premises in the morning, he asked for a ‘grace period’ so he could clear out the furniture and equipment, get his matters into order etc – the usual steps any business owner takes when they’re forcibly shut down especially as its clear he invested quite a bit in setting up the lounge.

By the end of the night there was no more Ritz. Bulldozers were sent in seemingly with the instructions to demolish everything which is precisely what they did. The owner allegedly only had time to save the printer everything else was smashed and broken. This was a hateful, vengeful act ordered by someone high up for the local authorities to act so swiftly as the only time they act in any way and with speed is when they need money from the people or when they have to – dignitary visiting, the tv cameras are coming to shoot something and so on. Warning in the morning, destruction by early evening.

True, end of the day the land was not his but not through his own fault. It’s not like buying plots is a matter of bartering there are legal paperwork and lengthy procedures one goes through before anything can be bought and sold. The Mahaliya should’ve given him to time to vacate but because someone high up was miffed they went in all gung ho like a crime’s been committed. The guys investment is now nothing but rubble. The time, effort and money spent on building & establishing something gone in a matter of minutes. Even if he takes the agent to court (assuming the guy’s still in town) or the mahaliya itself the probability of him getting anything back is minute. It’s just a depressing state of affairs.

If the land belonged to anyone else but a regime insider the matter would’ve and could’ve been dealt with better. But no, the Untouchables were hit and for that there’s a very high price to pay.

In Sudan, the whole populace is adversely hit by the government. Your ethnicity, your gender, your religious faith, your business decisions and choices, your political affiliation, your line of work and business, your attire even make you a target. for anything and everything. The only bracket immune to such violations are those “with them”. George W. Bush said it best: you’re either with us or against us. 10294247_666812690060297_7055158338927882473_n 10383578_666813200060246_8062341218682362124_n 10428571_666812733393626_667016749250649684_n 10422560_666812820060284_4452695104128795473_n

** What I’ve written on this case is based on what I was told, if there’s incorrect or missing info my apologies.

all the pictures are from the Ritz page on Facebook

fruits of the earth – Khartoum’s Souq el Markazi

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Went to one of Khartoum’s fruit and veg markets, سوق المركزي Central Market, this morning with my mum. I sometimes feel and act as a tourist and today I kinda was as I’ve never been to this particular one. Khartoum is renowned for its markets: Saad Gishra which is home to beauty products, fabrics and clothes; Souq Omdurman where you can pick up local artisans work, artefacts, carved ebony pieces, beaded jewellery, carpets, silver items, food items etc and spices; and el Souq el Shaabi (which literally means popular but can also be used to mean something is vulgar) is where you can pick locally made string beds (3angareb عنقريب) and chairs (bambar بمبر) , upholstery and haberdashery, household items… whatever one is looking for, name it and most probably you’ll find it in any of the souqs dotted around the city.

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This is Nabil, one of many young boys operating a wheelbarrow where you place your purchases and continue shopping. He’s beautiful and with the biggest smile ever though he was striking a pose here…

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me dad’s favourite fruit – we were under strict instructions not to come home without his babies ie bananas

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grapefruit, we love them. nothing better than a cold glass of freshly squeezed grapefruit juice when its a scorching outside. along with sweetened lime and hibiscus juices they’re the number one choice for most.

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the men in the background are separating the lemons (aka limes) & more grapefruit

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one of the numerous mango varieties on sale…

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oranges, oranges and more oranges

For the fruit and veg, all the produce is local with some imported items and generally the prices are much lower than in most high street grocery shops & super markets; plus you can ‘negotiate’ the price down and you buy in bulk which you later divide amongst yourself, sister, aunt etc

The mango varieties alone were confusing, so many and as for the grapefruit its one of our best kept secrets – succulent pink and very sweet.

Ramadan Kareem to y’all

Change up – the beauty of Sudan

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Figured it was time for a change up from the usual despondent posts on Sudan & celebrate the natural beauty of my country. There’s so much to do & see – Sudan is a hidden treasure, and though many prefer it to remain that hard to find gem a little publicity can do wonders… Am ashamed to say there are a lot of places and areas I’ve yet to visit but that’s my plan now am back.

**All the pictures are via the Support the Tourism in Sudan page on FB.

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rehabilitated child soldiers (via child-soldier.org)

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Sanganeb lighthouse, Port Sudan

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Aroos Resort, Port Sudan

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Dindir National Park, other wildlife found include: “giraffe, hartebeest, reedbuck, roan antelope, bushbuck, oribi, waterbuck, greater kudu, gazelle, dik-dik, buffalo, lion, and ostrich. Black rhinoceros, leopard, cheetah, elephant, hyena, and jackal are also occasionally found.”

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Valley, Nyala City – South Darfur

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Sabaloga

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South Kordofan

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Kutum Town, North Darfur

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Baladna… بلدنا

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Road to Qadarif City

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Darfur, western Sudan

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Qala Al- Nahal Secondary School, Al-Qadaref State, Eastern Sudan

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Zalengy City Valley, Central Darfur State, Western Sudan

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Sabaloka/Sabaloga, Northern Khartoum

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Kassala, East Sudan

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Alba Mountain, Halayib, North Sudan

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The Nile

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Sunset on the Nile, Khartoum

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El Butana plain (eastern/central Sudan)

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Kassala City, East Sudan

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Begrawiya Pyramids

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Suakin City Cornishe, East Sudan

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tranquility, east Sudan

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Sudanese beauty

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Spices at Souq Omdurman

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Forest Road, Dilling CIty, South Kordofan

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Suakin City, East Sudan

the dust, the dust and the dust

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10155962_10154026140775648_6277948066594982616_n 10271512_10154026149985648_2679628668832508797_nWe don’t get gold dust in Sudan but we do get grainy, sandy dust that alternates fm being a ‘kata7a’ to a ‘haboub’ or just plain ‘El dunia mutaraba’. Wearing black is not an option. The original and photoshopped pics (it’s not just celebrities who get a touch up you know).

Our sand storms are silky smooth, with a few rough granules here and there. It covers everything like a dusting of icing sugar when its in a good mood but most times opts for the Mother Nature wreaking hell on everything. Visibility is close to non-existent, asthma attacks are common place, if you’re a contact lens wearer you’re better off fumbling around then wearing them….its a horrible time to be in Sudan. 496143363_79bc1f8171

this last pic was taken by an expat a few years back and no the pic is most definitely not doctored… (https://www.flickr.com/photos/50454450@N00/496143363/?rb=1)